In recent years, the simple comfort foods that star in our sepia-toned childhood memories have had an even greater pull on us. Ice cream shops, burger joints and doughnut dynasties have multiplied, doling out creamy, salty, sweet and (this is key!) affordable indulgences.
But this isn’t anything new: Pros and home cooks alike have dressed up macaroni with swank cheeses—subbing Gruyère for cheddar, say—for decades. The ’90s were fraught with fancified meatloaves hiding shiitake mushrooms and dressed in demi-glace, and, as illustrated by our January issue, the burger craze has only gotten more feverish, the ground beef masterpieces even more over the top.
When the illustrious chef Thomas Keller—whose cooking is revered the world over, and whose outstanding restaurant Per Se, in New York City, was awarded four stars in The New York Times last fall—has a recipe for fried chicken in his latest cookbook (the fried chicken takes three days to brine and fuss over, but still…), consider the case closed: The upscale comfort food movement is solidly, thoroughly established.
Read more about haute comfort food at Seattle’s Coterie Room by clicking here.
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