What was wrong with The Farm? It was good, right? A tad overpriced, but a consistent anchor for comfort fare and views of the dancing fountain. But you know what they say. To all Farms a little Ramsay must fall. And we find we don’t mind, not one little bit.
Didn’t make the final cut on Hell’s Kitchen? Us either. But a Plan B has got our back. The notorious Scottish born Brit has made a down-market play for our favorite retail playground, and now we can all be privy to his wicked whisking ways at Fairfax and Third. We know the place. For sure our kids know the place.
Wait, mom, where’d the place with the good mac n’ cheese go?
Right here kids. Out with The Farm, in with The Cow, and not so shockingly, Ramsay makes a mean mac – all cheddar’d up and iron skilleted. It actually comes with gruyere for the grown-ups (or, brace yourself, with lobster and tarragon), but they’re happy to make an all-cheddar version for their more discriminating diners. Those plates will get polished off at the speed of light, guaranteed.
The deconstructed booth. Why didn’t anyone think of this before?
Take your standard booth, connect the sides, and bend it in half. It’s a simple stroke of designer brilliance. With the dangles of salvaged bulbs above, the mismatched mirrors behind, and each demi Lune situated as a front row seat for it all – you may as well be at a movie. A rustic roadhouse-come-restaurant-come share some Brussels sprouts caramelized so succulently your kids will go at ‘em popcorn style. The magic of Ramsay gloating in all his gloriously talented ways. He can design too, apparently. Good we were worried about him.
So, what are we eating?
The menu’s not exceptionally expansive, yet still inclusive of all our home-cooked hankerings, assuming it’s Gordon Ramsay at your stove-top. With The Fat Cow Market Salad you can actually taste the vision: Chef went to market down the row at The Original Farmers, picked up some stunning tomatoes, gorgeous corn, apples, cranberries, hazelnuts and avocado, chopped it all up with delight, and doused it in a light lemon dressing. It tastes as good as it sounds. Better, even. Popping with flavor as only produce that fresh can.
Sorry. If We’re Eating in Gordon Ramsay’s Kitchen, It’ll be a Dark Day Before We Order Salad.
Well, if that’s your opinion, we’re here to report that the Fat Cow Gourmet Burger is all that and a side of truffle fries. Branded with The Fat Cow insignia (DARLING), it’s the burger you eat when you never eat burgers so by God, make it good.
And. Those. Truffle. Fries.
The world’s most famous comfort food got gussied up and traveled to its homeland. Tried on a truffle for size. Mais oui, we approve.
Leave without dessert and you’ll have Hell’s Kitchen to Pay.
Get the kids the Cookie Milk Ice Cream Sundae (enough for 2, or 20, truly) if only so they’ll leave you and your Sticky Toffee Pudding alone. Side of Chantilly cream and check please, it’s heaven in a caramel coat. Let them go to town with the ceramic cow creamer (an endless entertainment provider) but hands off the pudding, kids. Sharing might be caring but mama’s got her limits.
Service is stellar, ambiance is entertainment, and The HK Anti-Oxidant is a killer cocktail to complement all of Gordon’s goodies. The Farm has moved out to pasture. But as the old adage says, why buy the farm when you can have the cow with a side of toffee pudding.
Something like that.
The Fat Cow
189 The Grove Drive
Los Angeles, Ca 90036
—Written and photographed by Jolie Loeb